Drink: Jonathan Pabiot 2012 Pouilly Fumé

In a town like Princeton, bursting with BYOBs, Public Wine, despite its modest Witherspoon Street storefront, is a must-stop for drinkers of all preferences.

It has one of the best beer selections I've seen beyond Philly's Foodery, with more than 1,000 labels including such rarities as Scotland's BrewDog and Founder's Kentucky Breakfast Stout.

There are 100-plus single malts, and 50 different sakes in the fridge for the sushi-bound. But equally impressive is the bank of coolers with a range of 150-plus quality white wines, chilled and ready to BYO.

For a special meal, splurge on a Pouilly Fumé from young Loire star Jonathan Didier Pabiot, which, despite the minimalist label, is a luminous beam of sauvignon blanc power, racy with lemon and green apple, rich with chalky minerals, and braced by a long, golden finish perfect for crudo, chicken, and delicate fish.

- Craig LaBan
 
Jonathan Pabiot 2012 Pouilly Fumé, $24.99 (10 percent off for Mistral customers), Public Wine, 23 Witherspoon St., Princeton, 609-924-0750.