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Calmelses' Le Cheri: Back to bistro

"I know a lot of people look at my quenelles and say, 'What is that?' " Pierre Calmels was clearly reading my mind. Because that was exactly the phrase that popped into my mind when his quenelles arrived at our table at Le Chéri. I'd witnessed several plates of unequivocal beauty over the course of my meals at this rambling new restaurant that he and wife, Charlotte Calmels, recently opened in the Philadelphia Art Alliance.

Boudin noir with pork blood sausage, pink lady apple compote and sherry vinegar sauce as served at Le Cheri, at the Art Alliance.
Boudin noir with pork blood sausage, pink lady apple compote and sherry vinegar sauce as served at Le Cheri, at the Art Alliance.Read moreDAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer
    by Craig LaBan, Inquirer Restaurant Critic | Columnist
    Published