Not the same old calamari

Esquire magazine loved Kanella's straight-ahead "Cyprus breakfast" of eggs (and bread, too) fried in olive oil, sizzling Halloumi cheese, and Lounza, a salty pork. But our favorites for Sunday brunch at the rustic Cypriot kitchen tend toward the grilled eggplant salad, the shaksouka (eggs poached in cumin-scented tomato and pepper stew), and the spit-roasted meats that chef Konstantinos Pitsillides turns over an open-air charcoal fire. A good un-breakfasty bet is little bulbs of grilled calamari-like sepia, also called cuttlefish. The young mollusks are brushed with olive oil, quickly grilled, tender to the bite but full of flavor. They're served with couscous, and green bean salad with capers and preserved lemon. (Brunch is from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.)

"Cyprus calamari," $10, Kanella, 10th and Spruce Streets, 215-922-1773.

- Rick Nichols