Sole II Soul the source for comfort fare

If comfort food is on your radar - and with the Eagles out of the Super Bowl and recent weather events, who isn't looking for comfort - consider Roxborough's Sole II Soul. The highlight is Sunday's all-you-can-eat soul food menu for $19.99, which could go a long way to comfort.

The name may be a Google goof, but it also reflects the menu that manager Fauq Ghaffar said emphasizes fish and soul food. It's also a nod to principal owner Mark Knox's former 4th Street restaurant, Piece of Sole.

It being so close to Wing Bowl, an order of Buffalo Wings ($7.95) seemed timely. We loved the spice heat that lingered and made us reach for the cooling blue cheese dressing. There could have been a few more celery sticks.

Next up were the Crab Balls ($9.95) - giant orbs nicely fried. The crunchy coating was a textural win, but the interior was a little flavorless, with too much filler. The Chipotle Mayonnaise made up for that, however. It nodded to a traditional remoulade but added serious heat.

Our favorite entree was the Turkey Wings ($14.95). I was first told they were done for the evening, but the server picked up on my disappointment and came back to say they could accommodate me since they had some prepped for Sunday's all-you-can-eat menu.

Glad they did, because these were perfectly braised, falling-off-the-bone-tender wings with the perfect ratio of seasoning. I will say, though, I like my turkey wings disjointed, if not more for ease of eating than cooking results.

The Stuffed Shrimp ($15.95) can be ordered deep fried or broiled. They were plump and stuffed with crab. It's hard to find a seafood dish on the menu that isn't embellished with crab.

The Fried Whiting ($9.95) was one of the more traditional soul offerings. Whiting can be one of those ubiquitous fish, but it is generally pollack. These were plump fillets, battered and fried with hot sauce on the side.

A misstep in the evening was the New York Strip Steak ($21.95). While it was cooked as ordered, the menu described the sauce as being made with port wine stock, A-1 sauce, tarragon and black pepper. All we could taste was an overwhelming amount of thyme.

Entrees come with a choice of two sides from a list including steamed broccoli, corn on the cob, roasted red bliss potatoes and orange rice.

Most notable was the orange rice, named after the neon color the Sazon seasoning imparts. The grains were separated and fluffy and a perfect foil to the turkey wings.

The broccoli was also well executed and simply prepared, which worked very well since many of the dishes were highly seasoned and salted.

We also ordered some sides for the table to share. The Mac and Cheese ($4.95) was good but a little over the top for my taste, overly seasoned with an herb blend the chef calls his special essence.

Here it could have had a little less essence. Simplicity should reign with mac and cheese: good pasta, a blend of sharp and mild cheddar, and some milk. Maybe a sprinkling of Asiago on top.

Definitely order the Collard Greens ($3.95). These were obviously slow-braised and richly flavored with smoked turkey. There is no pork on the menu.

Surprisingly, there was only one dessert. The Carrot Cake ($2.95), however, was a fine example of near excess. The cream cheese frosting was sweet but not too sweet, and the cake was moist, though it had an almost too heavy hand with the allspice.

Ghaffar said that on most nights there is also a Red Velvet Cake and their signature Sweet Potato Cheese Pie. Good to know.

The menu and its execution are fairly standard, with nothing that just grabs your attention. Still, Sole II Soul has an intangible something that makes the place work. I would have to say it comes from its "soul."

While the dining room is an odd box that feels more like a cafeteria than a restaurant, the vibe is casual and friendly.

Adding to the community feel are several themed nights, including a Comedy Club on the first Wednesday of the month and poetry readings on the third Wednesday. On the remaining Wednesdays you'll find rhythm and blues.

Also look to Tuesdays for date night, with the second entree half price. And since Valentine's Day falls on a Monday this year, the restaurant is open with a prix-fixe, multicourse meal.