South Philly Barbacoa

Cristina Martinez and husband, Benjamin Miller, have transitioned from their hit barbacoa taco cart into a colorfully mosaic-tiled storefront (formerly Vegan Commissary) that has fast become my current favorite taqueria in Philly.

Unlike many competitors with broader menus, the couple succeeds on mastering a handful of profoundly good things, namely the hauntingly tender whole-animal lamb barbacoa and spicy pancita sausage that are served Friday through Sunday alongside exceptional tortillas made fresh from house-ground masa, nopals salad, and addictively earthy bowls of chickpea-lamb consommé.

On weekdays, frijole-smeared tortas made from pillowy house-baked bread sandwich pulled chicken in mole Poblano and a bright green Toluca-style mole for tender pork meatballs blended with rice.