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The goat barbacoa is photographed at Cantina la Martina in the Kensington section of Philadelphia on Saturday, Aug. 19, 2023.
The goat barbacoa is photographed at Cantina la Martina in the Kensington section of Philadelphia on Saturday, Aug. 19, 2023.Read moreHeather Khalifa / Staff Photographer

Cantina La Martina

River WardsMexican$$-$$$

The arrival of Cantina La Martina has been a boon for Kensington. After two decades of cooking for others, Dionicio Jiménez’s first restaurant has allowed him to express a deeper vision for Mexican cooking from his native Puebla and beyond. The weekend goat barbacoa, slow-cooked in backyard pits, is a reason to go all by itself, but the colorful aguachiles and machete quesadillas stuffed with pastor negro are also fantastic. Then there are other specialties inspired by Jiménez’s passion for insects, like the chamorro pork shank with chicatana adobo, as well as Italian-Mex fusion nods to his time as Vetri Cucina’s pasta chef, like huitlacoche ravioli and chipilín-infused fettuccine with rabbit ragù — all of which tell a uniquely delicious personal story.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.

Restaurant Details

2800 D St, Philadelphia, PA , 19134
(267) 519-2142
https://www.cantinalamartinapa.com/
cantina.la.martina.philly
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