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The Shaw Muang dumplings are five flower-shaped dumplings with ground chicken, cucumber and thai chili. Prepared and plated at Kalaya in Fishtown on August 22, 2024.
The Shaw Muang dumplings are five flower-shaped dumplings with ground chicken, cucumber and thai chili. Prepared and plated at Kalaya in Fishtown on August 22, 2024.Read moreNeal Santos
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Kalaya

River WardsThai, Southeast Asian$$$

Is there a more exciting restaurant in Philadelphia than Kalaya? Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, the James Beard-winning chef, cookbook author, and Chef’s Table subject, makes the case for Southern Thai flavors in the soaring, palm-fringed space of a converted Fishtown warehouse that she opened with the partners behind Suraya and Pizzeria Beddia. Her signature dumplings, shaped into blue flowers and tiny birds, are musts to start, as are the crisply fried mustard chive gui chai cakes. If the uncompromising heat starts to settle in between the chile-fired duck laab and deeply earthy goat and lamb curry, balance your meal with a grilled chicken brushed in sweet coconut-tamarind glaze or a lemongrass-tanged soup (tom yum or poh taek). There are new tasting menu options now, too, that provide perfect examples of how to order a balanced Kalaya meal. Grab a tropical cocktail kissed with galangal, then head for a giant orb of shaved ice drizzled with Thai iced tea and guava syrup, which is like diving into a snowbank for dessert.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.

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