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The pierogi ruskie at Little Walter’s in Philadelphia on Wednesday, Sept. 4, 2024.
The pierogi ruskie at Little Walter’s in Philadelphia on Wednesday, Sept. 4, 2024.Read moreMonica Herndon / Staff Photographer
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Little Walter’s

Featured on The 76
KensingtonPolish, Eastern European$$-$$$

From the neon pierogi glowing golden in the window to the campfire aroma of the wood-fired hearth, Michael Brenfleck’s homage to Polish flavors at Little Walter’s in East Kensington is clearly a departure from the traditional Polska kitchens that were once ubiquitous in nearby Port Richmond (and are now best represented by Dinner House). The ownership debut for this Allentown native, who spent years cooking Mexican (La Calaca Feliz) and Mediterranean (Spice Finch), is a heartfelt reflection on family flavors updated with handcraft, seasonality, and creative touches, from the hauntingly smoked kielbasa to pierogi filled with farmer’s cheese and mushrooms. The wood-fired range lends a rustic note to rye-crusted chicken cutlets cooked in cast-iron pans and a deep savor to rotisserie pork rubbed in caraway and mustard “Shabasky” spice. A robust pickling program bolsters the bar, where pickle juice martinis, house krupnik, and the Urbanista, a bison grass vodka riff on the Citywide (alongside Żubr lager), keeps this next-gen Polish party rolling.

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The Inquirer aims to represent the geographic, cultural, and culinary diversity of the region in its coverage. Inquirer staffers and contributors do not accept free or comped meals — all meals are paid for by the Inquirer. All dining recommendations are made solely by the Inquirer editorial staffers and contributors based on their reporting and expertise, without input from advertisers or outside interests.

Restaurant Details

2049 E Hagert St, Philadelphia, PA , 19125
(267) 239-2228
https://littlewaltersphilly.com/
littlewaltersphilly
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